OCN - Nappy FAQ

Welcome to this FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) providing information on cloth nappies, from modern cloth nappies to traditional flats.

This information has been distilled from decades of experience by parents like you, and is constantly being revised and updated. We hope it answers all of your questions about reusable nappies - if not, drop us a line!

Why Go Cloth?

Cloth nappies have always been gentle to your baby, gentle to your wallet, and gentle to the earth. But now they're easier to use - and they look and feel better than ever. Welcome to the world of modern cloth.

With cloth nappies YOU can choose. Choose your nappy, choose your expenditure, choose your environmental footprint.

Click here for a quick video introduction to modern cloth nappies.

Make your choice from a huge range of quick-change modern cloth nappies: fitted nappies, all-in-ones, flats, prefolds and pocket nappies. Modern cloth nappies are great-looking, self-fastening and easy to use and wash.
If you prefer, choose traditional terry squares or prefolds as part or all of your cloth nappy system. Traditional nappies are versatile, easy to launder and quick to dry. Combined with quality breathable covers, they form an inexpensive and simple system.
Combine your fitted or folded nappies with leakproof, breathable covers made from wool, polar fleece, or breathable laminated fabrics in every colour and print imaginable.
Choose from hook and loop fasteners, snaps, tie-on, pull-up or lay-in varieties of modern cloth nappies. Fasten your traditional nappies with Snappis™ or just pad-fold them into a snug cover for quick changes and no fiddling.
Customise your absorbency to your baby's needs with boosters, stuffers, and inserts.
Choose modern cloth nappies made from all natural fabrics, or high-tech newer materials. Select more environmentally sustainable fibres such as organic cotton, hemp and bamboo.
Choose to sew your own nappies and knit or sew your own covers, choose new or recycled materials, or support local, high-quality work-at-home-parent (WAHP) businesses manufacturing modern cloth nappies.

Modern Cloth Nappies are whatever you want them to be!!!

While the choice may seem overwhelming at first, read on and things should become clearer. With cloth nappies, you have the ability to choose a system, or combination of systems, that suits your unique child and your unique circumstances.

* Water use is a big issue in Australia. How do disposable and reusable nappies compare in terms of water consumption?
* Aren't disposable nappies 100% biodegradable these days?

Advocacy

* Where can I download a brochure to distribute?
*I'd like to get more involved in cloth nappy advocacy. Where do I start?

Modern Cloth Nappies

* What are the different types of modern nappies?

There are a number of different types of modern nappies. Think outside the square! These shaped nappies have elastic in the legs and waist, usually with a closure such as snaps or hook and loop (trademark names include Velcro™, Aplix™ and Touchtape™). They can be divided into those that need a cover and those that don’t.

Fitted nappies: The defining feature of fitted nappies is that they require a cover. They are made of fabric which absorbs liquid, usually cotton (terry, flannelette, etc), hemp, bamboo or a blend. Some fitted nappies are ‘pocket fitteds’, with a stuffable area for extra absorbency. Most fitted nappies have a built in closure, which may be snaps or hook and loop (Velcro™, Aplix™, Touchtape™). A few modern fitted nappies are closed with a Snappi™ or with ties.

All-in-ones (AIOs): All-in-ones do not need a separate cover, but have some sort of waterproof layer as the outside or second-to-outside layer. This is usually polyurethane laminate (PUL) or premium-quality polar fleece. All-in-one nappies fasten with snaps or hook and loop, and may have a booster flap or extra booster for easier washing and faster drying.

There are also ‘almost-in-one’ nappies, also called All-in-twos or AI2 nappies. These have an absorbent booster that the user snaps or otherwise attaches to an outer shell (PUL, wool, or fleece). While more fiddly, these can be faster drying than true AIOs.

Pocket nappies: Consisting of an outer fitted shell sewn to a liner along three sides, pocket nappies allow for customisation of the absorbency level by changing how much absorbent material is stuffed into the nappy. The water-resistant shell might be polyurethane laminate (PUL), high-quality polar fleece, or a combination of fleece with a thin extra water-resistant layer such as taslon or rip-stop nylon. Pocket nappies can be stuffed with anything absorbent! Stuffers might be specially made stuff-ins; cotton, hemp or bamboo flats or prefolds; washcloths, microfibre cloths, or a combination of these things.

Covers: Nappy covers need to be made of a water-resistant or waterproof material. Waterproof plastic covers such as the polyvinyl chloride (PVC) covers found in supermarkets, and the plastic layers in all single-use nappies, tend to be occlusive (do not allow the skin to ‘breathe’). They may therefore contribute to nappy rash and higher skin temperature. Many users of modern cloth are moving towards water resistant covers for this reason - breathable fabrics combine adequate containment with air movement, for greater comfort and healthier skin.

Modern nappy covers are usually made of polar fleece, polyurethane laminate (PUL), or wool. Polar fleece needs to be of a very high quality, or a double layer, for maximal water resistance. PUL fabrics may be laminated cotton or laminated synthetic fabrics such as polyester. Cotton PUL comes in great prints, but tend to wick moisture if the nappy underneath becomes saturated. Wool covers may be woven or knitted, and when properly lanolised are low-care, extremely effective, and 100% natural. There are several other synthetic fabrics sometimes used in nappy covers: for example, coated nylon and minky. Minky (minkee) is a polyester fabric with a shaggy, fur-like texture.

Nappy covers (also called wraps) may fasten with snaps or hook and loop, or be pull-on. In cooler weather, some people like to use fleece tracksuit pants or long lanolised knitted wool pants (longies) directly over the nappy, rather than a nappy cover plus pants.

Not all modern cloth and fitted nappies are the same! In many cases, you ‘get what you pay for’ - cheap supermarket fitted nappies and AIOs (and a few expensive ones! Caveat emptor) are usually stuffed with synthetic polyester cushion wadding rather than cotton or hemp, and these absorb poorly and wick dramatically. Covers of cheap nappies are usually cheap PVC or similar, which does not last well and has possible risks of toxicity (due to outgassing).

Amongst other nappies: some are sewn better than others; some work-at-home-parent businesses (WAHPs) have better customer service than others; some nappies will simply suit one baby's size, shape and wetting pattern better than others. As in all industries, the ‘bad apples’ may be few and far between, but they do exist. Read reviews to get a sense of what might work for your baby. It’s wise to try out one or two of a particular nappy brand before committing to a system.

Flats and Prefolds

* What are the different types of flat nappies?

The most common type of flat nappy sold in stores in Australia is the terry flat. In New Zealand, flannelette flats are more common; these are thinner and trimmer, but less absorbent, and a Snappi™ does not work on them. Soft, thin muslin squares are sometimes used on newborns.

See ‘How do I fold a flat or prefold nappy?’ for details on folding these types of nappy.

Prefold nappies are increasingly popular Down Under. These are rectangular and fold into three (tri-fold), come in different sizes, and have a thicker central panel. They are usually made of a soft twill-weave cotton or hemp, although some may have flannelette, bamboo, or other fabrics. They are a little quicker to put on than a square flat, fast to dry, and a bit trimmer than a terry.

* What are the standard dimensions of prefolds and flats, and what ages/weights do they accommodate?

Unbleached Cotton PrefoldsSize	No. fabric layers in panels	Dimensions when new	Dimensions after washing (approx.)	Fits approx. weight range
Preemie	2 x 6 x 2	24 cm x 33 cm	22 cm x 29 cm	1.8-4.5 kg (4-10 lb)
Infant	4 x 8 x 4	30.5 cm x 40.5 cm	28 cm x 33 cm	3-6 kg (6.5-13 lb)
Premium	4 x 8 x 4	37 cm x 56 cm	33 cm x 50 cm	6-13 kg (13-28.5 lb)
Toddler	4 x 8 x 4	44.5 cm x 58.5 cm	38 cm x 50 cm	13-20g (28.5-44 lb)

Thanks to Janie from The Weewuns for these dimensions.

Flats will fit from a newborn through to a large toddler or small preschooler - the fit depends on the fold chosen rather than on different sizes of nappy.

CanningVale "Happies" Terry Flats: approximately 56 cm x 56 cm (after shrinkage)

Flannelette Flats (blue stripe): approximately 65 cm x 65 cm (after shrinkage)

Muslin Flats: These vary in size, but are typically a square with sides of 70-90 cm. Muslin flats are very light, and typically only suitable for a newborn (sometimes doubled or tripled for more absorbency).

* How do I fold a flat or prefold nappy?

There are many different possible folds for flat nappies, depending on your baby's size, wetting pattern, and your preference. Here are some links to help you decide on the best fold for you.

Flats

The Nappy Lady - 14 ways to fold terry flat nappies. Includes the Jo Fold, Lindsey's Newborn Fold, Ro Fold, Bat Fold (also known as Butterfly or Chinese), Poo Catcher, Pad Fold, Neat Fold, Triangle Fold, Maria's Fold, V Fold, Corners Fold, Twist Fold, Gaynor's Fold, and Kite Fold.

No-pins flanny fold: Pinless newborn fold for flannelette flats.

Prefolds

Folding prefolds: scroll down for the "jelly roll" method, good for containing runny newborn poo

Bikini Twist - Video

Video prefold information: Information on four types of prefold, and what they look like before and after your pre-wash

More prefold folding diagrams from Dy-dee: Angel Wing, Navel Defense, Bikini Twist

Folding a prefold: includes hints and video from Tinytots

Setting Up

* How many nappies should I get for each age?

The basic numbers work this way:

Newborns will most likely need changing between 10-12 times a day, older babies and toddlers 6-8 times a day. You then need to allow for washing and drying time in working out the total you need. Therefore, for a newborn you would need at least 24 nappies to go for two days (washing 10-12 each day, and allowing for them to dry the next day while using the remaining nappies). For an older baby or toddler 24 nappies could do you 3 or 4 days.

As for covers, it depends on what sort of cover you want. Mostly I would suggest at least 4 for each day, so if washing ever other day 8 covers, if every 3 days then 12 covers. Wool is a bit more forgiving as it can be aired between uses if it is not soiled, but can take longer to dry if needing a wash.

* How much is my starter stash going to cost me?

How much would you like to spend?

You can spend seven hundred dollars or more on a premium stash of one-size organic modern cloth nappies or hand-embroidered nappy art. (This is, of course, still far cheaper than buying single-use nappies for even just one child.) But if you'd like to create a more frugal stash, you can - very easily.

The basics of a frugal nappy stash are usually a pile of flats or prefolds, either bought new or passed down from friends and family members (or ask on your local Freecycle group!) For inexpensive covers, sew your own polar fleece or PUL wraps - or even run up some pocket nappies. Grab yourself some old woollen jumpers from the cupboard or an op shop to sew your own bum jumpers or recycled longies. Fitted nappies can also be sewn from free patterns, using recycled fabrics - old towels, T-shirts, anything made of absorbent material. There's nothing more frugal or more eco-friendly than giving your old clothes a new lease of life as born-again nappies.

* What about wipes?

Most people using reusable nappies also use cloth wipes. The advantages include: great cost savings; more effective in cleaning baby's bum; no need to separate the nappy from the wipe for washing/disposal; and avoiding the chemicals and rashes that can be associated with commercial wipes.. You can just buy terry baby flannels/washcloths, if you choose. Some work-at-home-parent (WAHP) nappy businesses make wipes from flannelette, terry towelling, fleece, hemp or a combination of these fabrics. Other mothers make their own wipes, overlocking scraps of terry or other fabrics. One popular type of wipe has a terry layer on one side for "grabbability", then a soft flannelette or fleece layer on the other for gentle wiping. These can be washed with your nappies.

There is no need for a special wipe solution - plain water works just fine! The simplest methods are to keep a spray or sports bottle of water next to your pile of dry wipes, or wet one or two under the tap on the way to the change table. If you keep the wipes wet, you need to change them very regularly to prevent fungal and bacterial growth. Some people choose to add oils (most prefer natural vegetable-based oils over mineral), dashes of baby soap, essential oils (be VERY careful that you consult with a professional on safe essential oils and dilutions for babies, and store them safely), chamomile tea, and other substances. All of these can be irritating or allergenic, so if you're having rash issues, suspect and eliminate additives first. For older babies especially, keep solutions well out of reach.

* I'm ordering nappies - how do I measure my baby to check the size? (a.k.a. "What's a rise?")

When you're ordering nappies, you'll need to check the sizing against the size charts for that particular nappy. In general you'll need at least a waist and rise measurement; sometime a leg circumference measurement; and, for longies, a leg length measurement as well. This page explains how to take waist, rise, and leg measurements for a nappy cover. Don't pull the measuring tape too tight - let it lie the way you'd like the item to fit.

When measuring rise, it should be done naked for a fitted nappy, and over a nappy for a nappy cover. You may need to add a little to the rise if you're planning to boost the nappy for night-times - check with the nappy maker if you think this might be the case.

Buying Nappies

*Where do I buy reusable nappies in Australia?

If you google Modern cloth nappies, cloth nappies, or reusable nappies you will get a list of many busineses

* But I'd really like to see them before I buy. Can't I find modern cloth nappies in regular stores?

Though they are still relatively few and far between, there are some stores that are starting to stock modern cloth nappies! In many areas, you can also have a good look at modern cloth before buying, through demonstrators, party plans, and markets.

To check out a State advocacy kit, email your local State contact at Australian Nappy Network.

There are also a group of Oz Cloth Nappies volunteers who are willing to show off their personal stash and/or their State Real Nappy Week advocacy kit, and chat about cloth. Most cities and regional areas also have casual get-togethers where you can have a good look at cloth nappies and ask all your questions in a no-sales environment.

To join in a local nappy gathering (variously called a ‘nappicino’, ‘nappucino’, or ‘nappycino’, because there tends to be copious amounts of coffee involved!) or find a ‘Nappy Buddy’, we have link of current meete ups on our Nappy Meet page, or come and join Oz Cloth Nappies discussion group

You can also buy second-hand nappies at a fraction of the cost of new nappies if you would like to try a particular style before committing to buying several. Participating members in the Oz Cloth Nappies discussion group list their nappies for sale or swap in the Oz Cloth Nappies weekly Ad digest from time to time. Most other parenting and nappy forums also have a Trading section for established members.

* Ebay doesn't allow second-hand nappy sales any more. Where can I sell my baby’s outgrown nappies?

Recycling nappies saves you heaps of money and is great for the environment. Reusing nappies on a second (or third!) child reduces the environmental impact of the nappies dramatically.

There are plenty of places where you can re-sell your nappies. Also, participating members in the Oz Cloth Nappies discussion group are more than welcome to list their nappies for sale or swap in the Oz Cloth Nappies weekly Ad digest. Most other parenting and nappy forums also have a Trading section for established members. Join in the cloth nappy community, make friends, and keep your nappies circulating.

Polar Fleece and Microfleece

* Why can polar fleece be used for both covers and liners?

Thanks to Ruth for this information.

Synthetic fleece is hydrophobic (water hating) so it never "wants" to be near water. If you leave the corner of a terry, flannelette or hemp nappy soaking in the laundry sink, and leave the rest of the nappy dry, hanging over the edge of the sink, and then come back a few hours later, you will probably find that the whole nappy is wet! This is because the water has been wicked up the fabric, like a lamp wick drawing up fuel. Polyester fleece doesn't do this.

Many people talk about synthetic fleece "wicking the urine away from the baby's bottom", but in fact it is forced through the synthetic fleece when the baby wees right up against it. It is the absorbent material in the core of the nappy (cotton, hemp etc) that does the wicking, keeping the moisture away from the baby's skin. Therefore, thin polar fleece (microfleece) can be used as nappy liners to create a ‘stay dry’ effect for the baby. Polar fleece can also work as a cover to prevent fluid escaping the nappy, as long as a thick, high-quality fleece is used (such as Malden Mills).

If any nappy (cloth or disposable) is completely saturated, the fluid will begin to leak out. So if the inner core of a nappy that is surrounded by synthetic fleece is absolutely saturated, the fluid has to go somewhere. Because fleece has tunnels through it (hence the breathablility) some fluid can be forced through the hydrophobic synthetic fleece and into the cotton clothes that baby is wearing. This is also why their clothes can feel a little damp if they have been sitting in a car seat, because some of the fluid has been forced out where the belt or bottom of the car seat has been pressing onto the nappy firmly for a long time (also known as ‘compression wicking’).

Fleece covered nappies work really well - so long as you either change often enough or put more stuffing inside your pocket; and so long as you have the correct grade of fleece. A fleece cover, or fleece pocket nappy can easily last all night with your baby's clothes staying dry, so long as you boost well and have enough material in the nappy to absorb anything your baby can produce in the ten or so hours that they are in the nappy overnight. Many people personally prefer synthetic fleece (or natural wool) covers or pocket nappies over waterproof fabrics (especially at night time), because if the nappy does occasionally get sopping wet, at least the baby's skin stays dry as opposed to being steamy and saturated behind a waterproof barrier.

If your fleece cover starts to wick or leak after a while, the most common problem is detergent build-up. Follow the instructions under "How do I strip fleece?" to fix this. One other possibility is that the baby has grown (or you're putting more boosting in the nappy) and the fleece is overstretched and therefore wicking. Unstretched fleece works best.

* What are the different kinds of Malden Mills fleeces?

Courtesy of Lesley Fletcher, thank you

Malden Mills is the manufacturer of quality fleece that is the most technically advanced in the world. The link for information on their different types of fleece, of which they have quite a few, can be found here. Even within the categories, there are lots of variations.

What is the difference between 100, 200 and 300 series? The higher the number the heavier and warmer the fabric is. In ounces, the difference is:-

100 - 9.5 oz per linear yard

200 - 12.5 oz per linear yard

300 - 16 oz per linear yard

Microfleece and 100wt fleece are used inside nappies because they wick moisture away from baby's skin to keep it dry. It is mainly used for liners, but may be used to line a complete nappy (as in the case of pockets).

200wt works well as a cover, and for DAYTIME AIOs. The key to using 200wt in nappies is the absorbency of the nappy - it must be adequate or compression wicking WILL occur. You could use 200wt AIOs around the house or yard, but wouldn't work very well when bubs is sitting or lying for long periods (car seat, pram etc). This fleece also makes great winter pyjamas.

300wt Windpro/WindBloc are different types of heavyweight fleece. DWR is NOT necessary for these fleeces to work as a cover or an AIO outer. It is the density of the fleece that makes these fabrics water RESISTANT. Fleece is NOT waterproof. It is breathable and the synthetic equivalent of wool. The reason there are more wicking issues with fleece than wool is that wool can absorb moisture, while fleece will not. Again if you have sufficient absorbency in your nappy, wicking won't be an issue.

If you are using the 300wt Windpro/Windbloc and you are still having leaking/wicking issues, the following maybe of help:

If you are leaving your nappy on too long and the nappy is saturated, try adding a booster or change more often.
Compression wicking - This can happen if your child is sitting on a plastic seat, counter or the like for a time (car seat, hairdresser etc). The outside of the fleece can sweat and leave moisture on the seat. If you haven't noticed this happening, great, but if you would like to see it happen, just put a cover over your fleece AIO. The outside of the fleece with begin to feel wet, and that confirms the excellent breathability of the nappy.
Detergent build-up. If the fleece gets a detergent build-up, the moisture is able to travel through the fleece. Rinsing well and using less detergent solves this issue.

In all these cases DWR (Durable Water Repellent) does not need to be used. If you are using fleece with DWR, the DWR may wear away after time in your nappy if you do not always follow the manufacturer’s directions for cleaning (i.e. do not wash on hot or use fabric softener/vinegar). A nappy gets washed much more often than outerwear. If you think about it, a jacket or jumper may get washed once a month (most likely less, maybe more) and a nappy in that same time period in an average rotation would be washed 12 times. Fleece with DWR, in my opinion, is just extra protection.

* How do I strip microfleece?

If detergent or nappy paste residue builds up on a fleece liner or pocket nappy inner, the fleece may repel liquid, causing leaking. You can tell if this is happening by running water onto the fleece and seeing whether it penetrates or beads on the surface. If your fleece is repelling, it needs to be strip washed. Do a very hot wash in dishwashing liquid (like Dawn) and rinse until no more suds appear. If this does not work, you may need to scrub the fleece surface under detergent and hot water. If this doesn’t work, you may need to replace the liner (zinc-based creams can be difficult to shift). Re-evaluate your washing routine - are you using natural soap, fabric softener, or too much detergent?

Wool

* I hear a lot of people swear by wool covers, especially for night-time. But how do they work?

With thanks to Alexia Broome

Wool covers are fantastic over a night nappy. Possible night nappy combinations include: dedicated night nappies; a double terry (fold one terry kite fold and pad fold another into the centre); or a well-boosted hemp or bamboo fitted. Fitted nappies with covers can be good on toddlers, as I've found pockets to leak on occasion with older babies. This is because they're apt to sleep in weird and wonderful positions which mean gaps can form around the waist or leg (especially when they sleep in that bottom-in-the-air, face-down pose).

Counter-intuitively, wool works well because it is absorbent. So you put on a very well-boosted nappy overnight, and any dampness that makes it through to the outer layers of your nappy is absorbed and evaporated by the loose knit of the wool. The key here is to LANOLISE the wool. By lanolising your covers you can not only improve their water resistance (the stop/block effect), but also ensure that any urine absorbed by the wool is neutralised. On the rare occasions when a child has peed a waterfall overnight, you may have a feeling of slight 'rising damp' to the wool cover. Rarely, the damp may extend to the child’s pants or sheet if they've pushed against it. But have a sniff (preferably when no-one’s watching, they'll think you're nuts!) of the clothes and you'll find any light moisture that has come through smells completely neutral. If perchance it does smell a little like urine (or if the wool cover smells a little of urine after you've hung it to dry for a bit) then that's a sure sign that it's past its best-by-date and needs to be washed and re-lanolised to be back in tip-top shape.

The huge benefit of wool is that it catches and evaporates almost anything you throw at it overnight, and then you just hang it out to air during the day and can use it again the next night. Knitted wool covers also stretch quite large so will cover bulky night nappies with ease and you won't have bits poking out that could cause leaks. Some have asked if an extra strip of knitted wool is needed in the wettest area of the cover. I shouldn't think that you'd need a 'doubled' area with your knitting, but if it puts your mind a little more at ease - go for it! It will certainly make it even more leak-proof!

I'd also point out that night nappies are traditionally huge - as they'll be worn for such a long time they need that absorbency - but as long as you take them off first thing when the child wakes, they'll very quickly find it quite comfortable to sleep in. You may have to consider PJ pants in a larger size, but personally I'd recommend a pair of 100% polyester fleece track pants as an excellent alternative to PJs as you won't get any 'wicking' effect which can sometimes happen with cotton PJs as you can well imagine.

Plus, cut a microfleece liner to almost the size of the entire inside of your nappy your little one will not only not leak - but she'll feel at least as dry as a disposable nappy. This is because wicking means the wee will probably be dispersed all through the nappy by morning, so they can feel damp around the thighs/tummy if you only use a strip of liner. To avoid that, use a full liner cut to size for your particular nappy (also good for catching any ‘early morning surprises’!).

* How do I handle, wash and lanolise wool covers?

Lots of people swear by wool covers - they are breathable, absorbent, cool in summer and warm in winter, and great for night-time use. Some people think wool is difficult to deal with, but it's easier than it looks. Once lanolised, the lanolin in the wool fibres increases water resistance, and also combines with a substance in urine to form a type of natural soap - reducing smell and meaning that air drying between uses and a quick rinse every few days or so (with heavy use) keeps them fresh.

They do need to be lanolised every once in a while (normally when they stop repelling water or start to retain smell. This is usually every 4–8 weeks depending on usage). Otherwise they just need a wool wash when they start to get smelly or are dirty.

To lanolise a wool cover with plain anhydrous lanolin (e.g. Lansinoh):

Hand wash if necessary in a little wool wash. Covers can be lanolised either wet or dry.
Melt a small amount of lanolin (about pea sized) with very hot water in a jar. Do not shake the jar! Then dilute the melted lanolin with warm water. Some people add tiny bit - just a drop or two - of wool wash or baby shampoo to help disperse the lanolin.
Pour mix evenly over covers in a bucket, topping up with warm water to just cover them. Many people find it useful to turn the covers inside out before lanolising.
Soak for at least 15 minutes (overnight is OK too). Remove cover, do not rinse, squeeze excess water and hang to dry out of sunlight.
Be sure to dry your cover fairly promptly. If it dries slowly, it may develop a musty or sheepy smell. Also, keep it well out of reach of dogs!

For a video of a slightly different lanolising method, click here. The wool wash they use is not essential; some people use a drop of baby shampoo, some use a tiny bit of natural soap; some use just the lanolin.

If you're using a liquid lanolin or spray lanolin product, follow the manufacturer's directions.

* Where do I get lanolin from?

Lansinoh™ can be found in chemists, in the breastfeeding section, and is 100% pure lanolin. Another good alternative is Purelan (check the label to make sure it's the newer version without the preservative BHT). Some cheaper ‘100% lanolin’ labelled brands may contain pesticide residues or allergenic wool alcohols. Most so-called ‘wool allergy’ is allergy to wool alcohol residues, not to the wool fibres themselves. Cheap lanolin may also make your wool covers stink of a horrible wet-dog-like sheepy stink.

Alternative lanolising products: Some people prefer liquid lanolin, found online, or a lanolin spray wool care product. Be aware that many sprays contain synthetic fragrance oils, if you are avoiding these. There are also dissolvable Wool Buddies tablets or lanolin-heavy wool soaps available.

* Honey, I've shrunk the soaker! My wool cover went into the washing machine. Help?

Try the hair conditioner trick! Thoroughly mix a good amount (maybe a half cup) of cheap hair conditioner into a basin of cool water. Immerse the shrunken wool soaker and soak it well, squeezing and massaging the mix into the fibres. Gently, carefully, stretch to re-shape the cover. Re-lanolise, dry flat in shade, and you're done.

Other untried methods include those using vinegar, borax, or Epsom salts solutions. If you've decided to be a pioneer and try one of these, do report back!

Laundry

* How do I wash cloth nappies?

Just wash 'em. Really.

One common recommendation is to simply drypail and do an ordinary wash in warm water with half or less of the recommended amount of detergent. Reducing your detergent quantities enhances rinsing and reduces residue (which can cause compromised nappy absorbency and increase rash), and is better for the environment. Larger amounts of detergent may be useful for clothes heavily soiled with fats and oils. Nappy contents are not greasy, so only just enough detergent to break the water surface tension for adequate penetration of water through the fibres is needed. Many people prefer a fragrance-free, enzyme-free detergent to reduce the risk of skin reactions.

Detergents
Popular brands among Oz Cloth group members include Amolin, Purity, Earth's Choice, Aware/Planet Ark, Eco Store, Tri Nature.

For one ethical assessment of companies marketing laundry products, check out this page at ethical.org.au after referring to their particular criteria here (please note that they do not evaluate performance, value for money or suitability for nappies.)

Pre-rinsing
Soiled nappies should have the poo removed, by dumping into the toilet and/or rinsing off with water (many use a Little Squirt nappy sprayer). With a full load of nappies, particularly in a very water-efficient machine, it may be useful to do a cold pre-rinse cycle of all the nappies before the full wash cycle.

If you're planning to drypail your nappies for more than a couple or three days, it is wise to briefly rinse the nappies before putting them in the bucket. Leaving strong urine (particularly overnight toddler urine) on the nappies for days on end may sometimes affect the nappy fabric.

Wash temperature, ‘nappy soaking’ chemicals, soap, and fabric softener

You can wash in cold, warm or hot water if you prefer (so long as your nappy manufacturer recommends it).

Bleaches (chlorine or oxygen-based) sold as ‘nappy soaking’ chemicals can cause skin irritation and are not necessary.

Some people choose bicarbonate of soda, borax, or vinegar to wash or rinse with, however this is not recommended by some nappy manufacturers. Please check first, as sometimes these substances may cause wicking, stink or even destroy your elastic or PUL.

Soap: In most water types and washing machines, natural soap flakes are not recommended for nappy washing, as the build-up can cause the fabric to repel and leak.

Fabric softener will build up on fabric and should be avoided. The perfumes may also irritate.

Antibacterial products
Some people will choose to occasionally use a commercial antibacterial product on their nappies. These are not necessary, because detergent, heat and sunlight are all effectively antibacterial and antifungal, alone or in combination. The routine unnecessary domestic use of antibacterial chemicals is in many ways actively harmful, contributing to the environmental disaster of antibacterial product build-up in our waterways and the proliferation of resistant bacteria (‘superbugs’). Resistant bacteria attack the most vulnerable people in our society: the ill, newborn, and hospitalised. Community use of antibacterial products contributes to the problem.

Sunlight

Many areas in Australia have an abundance of sunlight for drying nappies. Even if there is cloud cover, ultraviolet light is poorly filtered by cloud (that's why we still get skin damage), and will bleach and sanitise your nappies, albeit more slowly. We're looking for more published research data on sunlight and bacteria, so if you have a contribution, please send it in.

It's well known that ultraviolet light kills bacteria. It was noted as early as 1969 that sunlight exposure killed staphylococcus aureus and other bacteria on agar growth plates. Ultraviolet irradiation is used as a sterilisation method for some medical instruments, and sunlight photo-oxidation (sometimes with additional chemicals) is used as a wastewater treatment strategy. Some examples of research into the wonders of sunlight/UV in bacteria-killing include:

This study, "Effect of sun-drying and chemical disinfection on contaminated cleaning cloth" speaks directly to the use of sunlight as an antibacterial agent on fabrics. The authors used a towel to wipe college eating tables for three days, loading them with bacteria including Escherichia Coli (a common faecal bacterium), Staphylococcus aureus (golden staph), Proteus, Bacillus, Klebsiella, and Pseudomonas species. Some of these bacteria have a tendency to be resistant to antibiotics and disinfectants, thanks to overuse of these substances. They then washed the towels in detergent and sun-dried them. Tests of the towels after sun drying showed that the bacterial numbers and types were reduced to acceptable levels. They then compared this to disinfectant use - and disinfectant came off second best.

Essential oils
Other people ask about using tea tree oil or similar essential oils in their wash. If you choose to try this, it is important to bear in mind these precautions:

Check with your nappy manufacturer: many specifically warn against essential oil use due to the effects on PUL and elastic
Watch for skin irritation or allergic reactions. Tea tree oil is a particularly common contact allergen in Australia
Keep essential oils extremely dilute at all times
Keep these locked well out of reach of children, as you would medications and other poisons. They are very, very toxic in tiny doses. Several ml of ingested eucalyptus oil may send your toddler into convulsions and the intensive care unit. Sadly, this is one of the most common childhood poisonings.
Consider consulting with a qualified, up-to-date aromatherapist before use. Essential oils are absorbed through the skin, and toxicity is increasingly recognised, including possible systemic issues such as gynecomastia in boys (breast growth) from oestrogenic compounds. The New England Journal of Medicine reports this side effect from lavender and tea tree oil products, but other oils have not been studied in detail and may share the effect. My personal feeling [Lara Hopkins] is that this is enough reason to avoid essential oil use completely for infant skin contact, and be very judicious using it for older children (wash-off applications only), until the toxicity situation is clarified. Nor are synthetic fragrance compounds necessarily free from effects. These are complex chemicals often derived from petroleum products. Please think before you perfume your children.

Immunisation
Some people believe that special washing routines are required after live virus vaccines such as MMR (routine polio immunisation in Australia ceased to be a live virus vaccine as of November 2005). In actual fact, no special treatment is needed for healthy households. Always wash your hands after changing any nappy, as a general routine. If there is a seriously immunocompromised person in your immediate household (cancer treatment, AIDS, post-transplant, etc), please discuss this with your doctor before immunisation. Similarly, during gastroenteritis illnesses in an otherwise healthy household, the detergent, heat and sunlight of a normal laundry routine will sanitise the nappies adequately; no special treatment is required.

Residue and Strip Washing
A caution if you use your normal detergent is to watch for residue build-up which can cause nappies to smell or repel liquid, or cause an irritant nappy rash. To fix this you can just rinse until the nappies do not produce suds - keep on checking the washing machine outlet. If you're in an area with severe water restrictions and are using flats or prefolds, you might consider boiling the nappies instead. I've even heard of people who have put them in their dishwasher, but watch that you don't use dishwasher detergent, you rinse well, and that they can't fall onto the outlet filter or element.

Strip Wash: If you get a particularly bad build-up of wash product residue, you can ‘strip’ your nappies with very, very hot water and a little bit of plain (non-moisturising) dishwashing liquid. Don't use dishwashing liquid in a front loader, and check care instructions before using extremely hot water on modern cloth nappies. Watch for over-foaming, and rinse nappies very thoroughly afterwards until absolutely no suds remain.

Another way to strip wash is to add bicarbonate of soda to the wash, and vinegar to the rinse. Warning: Some nappies cannot be washed using these products, so please check with your nappy manufacturers carefully before trying this.

Some people rotate through two or three different kinds of washing detergent to keep residue issues down. In general, using well under the recommended amount of detergent helps stop residue from building up in the first place!

Another possible cause of build-up on a nappy is the use of thick barrier creams. These are generally unnecessary if the nappy is changed often enough. If you do experience this problem, you may need to scrub the nappy inner with a nailbrush and a little washing-up liquid before continuing with the strip wash procedure above.

It can also be a case of working out what is right for your baby. If your routine is working, stick with it!

* What is drypailing?

You will discover that most people these days use drypailing. This simply means placing used nappies (once solid matter is removed into the toilet) into a nappy bucket until wash time. Nappy soaking bleaches are not necessary with modern nappies and modern washing machines, and drypailing also reduces the drowning risk associated with soaking buckets. It's also much easier and quicker!

Many find that a drypail that is EITHER well sealed OR open to the air has minimal smell. If your drypail does have a smell, there are several ways of dealing with it. One easy and inexpensive way is to tape a piece of absorbent material to the inside of the lid - a coffee filter, square of fabric, or similar - and put a couple of drops of the essential oil of your choice onto this. This reduces smells while avoiding the essential oil contacting your nappies. There are commercial fragrance-impregnated products you can buy if you prefer not to DIY. Some people sprinkle bicarbonate of soda into their drypail. Please check with your nappy manufacturer before using this.

The process for removing solid matter into the toilet varies depending on the age and diet of the baby. For a younger breastfed baby, you can generally just drypail the nappies without bothering - the yoghurty texture will rinse out just fine and clear in a modern machine. For older babies, many prefer a liner - either flushable (not all disposable liners are flushable!), microfleece or microsuede. These liners will help solid, formed poo ‘roll off’ into the toilet. For the awkward in-between stage (sticky texture), some dunk in the toilet while flushing, some scrape (with toilet paper or a dedicated plastic implement), and some use a squirt-hose toilet attachment called a ‘Little Squirt’ (strongly recommended by many on the Oz Cloth forum!).

* Suddenly today's nappies have grey/black/purplish stains! Could it be teething, or Panadol?

Occasionally, nappies suddenly start developing mysterious discolourations from urine. Urine discolours the nappies a black or grey colour. The common factor seemed at first to be teething. Substantial anecdotal evidence is mounting that it's not teething itself that causes the stains, but Panadol (paracetamol) syrup medication. It is not clear at this time whether the causative substance is colouring, a sweetener, or something else: sorbitol is one possibility.

Possible options include using alternatives (suppositories, chewable tabs, alternative painkillers) or looking for sorbitol- and colour-free brands, in consultation with your healthcare provider. If this type of staining occurs for you, consider rinsing nappies immediately after changing and before drypailing. If you choose to soak at these times, do avoid chemical nappy soaking chemicals - a little plain detergent or just water alone is fine. The stains will eventually wear out with repeated washing and sunning, and do not damage the fibres of the nappy.

Other causes of urine staining to consider include beets, blackberries, rhubarb, vitamins, certain medications, urinary tract infections, and (very rarely) more severe medical conditions. Newborns may show orange-red urate crystals in their nappy if they are dehydrated. If your baby is very young or you have medical concerns, please see your healthcare practitioner.

* My hemp nappies are retaining smells a little. What can I try?

If you've tried the instructions in the laundry section to get rid of residue, but some smell remains after laundering, try this procedure. Bear in mind that hemp does have its own natural scent; you only need to fiddle with your nappies if they show a mildewy or ammonia smell.

(This information is courtesy of Davina at Baby Beehinds.)

Because hemp is very absorbent, it sucks all it can right down into the core of the fibre. So, while it is fantastic for absorbency, hemp can sometimes become smelly. To get rid of smells, you need to do a hot wash with NO detergent, but half a cup of bicarbonate of soda; and then a quarter of a cup of vinegar to your rinse cycle. Then you need to keep rinsing until the water is no longer sudsy. Generally, I don’t recommend using vinegar as part of your normal wash routine, but it can be helpful during this smell-ridding process, depending on the alkalinity of the water in your area. Some makers of nappies and nappy covers recommend not using bicarbonate of soda or vinegar on their products; therefore don't use these chemicals in a mixed load or in routine laundering unless you have double-checked with each manufacturer.

You should line dry in the sun, as driers seem to make nappies hang onto smells (and not just hemp nappies). Using driers is definitely okay, however it is best to frequently line dry or at least alternate between the clothes line and the drier. If by following this wash routine you still find you have smelly nappies, you might need to use MORE detergent than you were originally using because the brand you are using may not be as strong as other brands available.

* What is a Little Squirt and how do I use it?

(This information courtesy of Jamie Redmond, installation information from Brooke)

What is it?
A Little Squirt is a high pressure hose and trigger that attaches to your toilet so that you can spray the poo on a soiled nappy straight into the toilet.

Where can I buy one?
Little Squirts are available from many cloth nappy sites , general baby needs sites , online auction sites, from Bunnings, and from plumbing stores.

Some people have had trouble actually finding them at hardware stores. Look near the toilet supplies, not just in the baby supplies. If your local store is out of stock you can ask for one to be ordered in for you.

Another option is to buy from a co-op group in the US. There are often groups running co-ops of nappy sprayers other than the Little Squirt. The Little Squirt is Australian designed and produced and does not seem to have a large market share in the US. This may explain why I have not come across a US co-op for Little Squirts, only other brands.

How do I install a Little Squirt?
Installing your Little Squirt yourself isn't difficult once you figure it out!

Step 1: Turn off the tap to your loo!

Step 2: Flush and flush again until you have zero water coming out of the cistern

Step 3: Lay some old towels on the floor

Step 4: With an adjustable wrench, remove the pipe that goes from the wall to your loo

Step 5: Apply thread tape to the threads, and make sure the ‘o’ rings are in place

Step 6: Screw splitter to the wall pipe.

Step 7: Attach the short hose from the splitter to the loo

Step 8: Attach the long hose from the splitter to the hand unit

Step 9: Slowly turn on water and check for leaks

Step 10: Try spraying

You may also like to attach the trigger hook to the wall. You can install a Little Squirt in a rental home. When it comes time to remove the Little Squirt just do a similar thing and replace the pipe you removed to install the Squirt. Make sure you have some plumbers tape on hand in case it is needed.

The Little Squirt is designed to fit most toilets, but in rare cases you may need to look at getting a hose of a different length. I do remember hearing of someone who contacted the company who makes the Little Squirt and this was sent out free of charge.

How do I use a Little Squirt?
Using your Little Squirt can take a little bit of practice, but once you get the hang of it you are sure to love it!

Many people find that when they first use their Little Squirt the water splashes all over them and the walls. Therefore, it is wise to do a test spray first to avoid spraying poo in places you didn’t want it to go! The first thing to test out is the water pressure. To do this, turn the silver knob near the black handle on the trigger of the Little Squirt. This silver knob is also the 'child lock' on the Little Squirt. If your child isn't interested in trying to play with the Little Squirt it can be handy to not use this and to just keep the knob in the same 'on' position all the time. Then you know what pressure you can expect the water to be, rather than having to adjust it every time you use the Squirt.

If you use a combination of liner, booster, fitted nappy and covers in your system, separate them before you start squirting. You may not need to squirt all layers. Also pull out the inner from a pocket nappy (carefully!). This will make it easier when it comes time to squeeze out the excess water and wash the nappy.

Lay the nappy (or liner, etc) against the side of the bowl, down in the toilet. Gently start squeezing the trigger, aiming the flow of the water on to the nappy but down in to the toilet. If you are getting splash back try using less pressure, angle the sprayer at a slightly different angle, or get in closer to the nappy with the trigger.

Move the nappy about and keep spraying until all the poo is off the nappy. You may need to stretch out the fabric around the legs and back of some nappies to get poo out of the elasticised folds. It is up to you how particular you are about this. Then squeeze the excess water out of the nappy and put in the nappy bucket to dry pail. Squeezing out this excess water will help keep your bucket from getting quite so smelly!

If your nappy bucket is not in the bathroom, it can be handy to have a plastic container (such as an ice-cream container) in which to carry soiled nappies to and from the toilet.

Some other uses for the Little Squirt are:

Washing out soiled pants during toilet training
Washing the toilet
Washing the toilet floor
Dealing with major food spills on clothing before laundering
Removing vomit from clothes

Couldn't I just make my own?
Some people have made their own version of the Little Squirt. It is important to get advice on the correct hose to buy. You will need one that is well reinforced to cope with the water pressure coming through the hose. The Little Squirt also has a water limiting disk in it that slows the flow of the water coming out of the trigger. Something to consider.

* Someone told me that washing cloth nappies costs just as much as buying single-use nappies. Surely that can't be right!?

(Thanks to Caroline for this costing)

The following calculations use 2010 prices, and are based on washing 2-3 times per week and using a 5.5 kg top-loading machine, warm wash, no soaking, no machine pre-rinsing, line drying.

Usage - cloth nappies full time for 12 months - baby age 3-15 months. I changed 3575 nappies over the 12 months, and did 120 loads of nappies.

Detergent: 2.5 bottles of purity liquid at 4.09/bottle: $10.23

Water: I have a top-loading 5.5L Simpson. 120 loads x 121 L = 14520 L over the year. I assumed 4 L per day for rinsing poo (my DS did a poo most days but this will vary with the baby of course!) and 6 L per day to flush the poo.
Total water 3650+14520 = 18170 L or 18.17 kL.
My water charge is $1.87 per kL, giving a total cost of $33.98

Power: my machine uses 576 kwH per year based on a daily warm wash. I used this figure even though my washes were all cold. 576/365 gives 1.578 kwH which is one load. Peak price for power from my electricity company is $0.27797 per kWh so for 1 load this is $0.44. 120 loads during the year gives $52.80

Grand Total $97.01

... and that's for a YEAR. So based on this scenario, the cost of washing cloth nappies is $1.87 per week.

* Why are my brand new nappies leaking?

Chemicals and residue on new fabrics coats the fibres and reduces absorbency. All new nappies require 3-6 hot washes before they will approach full absorbency (shorter for cotton, longer for hemp - ask your manufacturer/WAHP).

* My flannelette nappies are pilling. How can I fix them?

If you've sewn some nappies from a type of flannelette that tends to pill, you can strip off the pilling easily this way. Apply a wide strip of adhesive hook (from hook and loop - Velcro™ brand works fine) to the back of an old hairbrush. Brush the pilling flannelette with this hook - it will pick it up from the fabric.

To clean the hook piece, you can use the teeth of a fine comb, or the hooks of a Snappi™. This works great on the accumulated lint in the hook parts of a hook and loop nappy or cover, too!

Drying Nappies

* Is the general consensus that pocket nappies dry quickly – i.e. faster than say terry or flannelette fitteds or all-in-ones (AIOs)?

Definitely! Some fitteds and AIOs are styled to reduce drying time, but in general a flat nappy, or a pocket nappy with foldable insert will dry fastest.

* Is there anything besides the clothes dryer or shade drying to stop nappies going stiff and 'crunchy' in the sun?

If you use a liner of any kind (including a pocket nappy), the stiffer layer isn't next to the baby's skin. Hanging up flat nappies partly folded and/or in part shade helps by slowing drying, as does giving them a quick shake and scrunch as you take them off the line. Some people prefer to soften the nappies for five minutes in a dryer after taking them off the line.

* What about using a dryer all the time?

Hanging a garment to dry will lengthen its lifespan. Anyone who has emptied the lint filter of a dryer can see that fibres come out of the garments during drying, gradually thinning the fabric. Over time, holes will develop in nappies that are always tumble dried. Routine tumble drying is also somewhat expensive and increases the environmental impact of your nappy use substantially. In Australia line drying is possible in most areas for most of the year, and it is by far the best way to dry your nappies.

The heat of tumble drying also speeds the deterioration of elastic, which will eventually make the elastic ineffective, so care and low settings are generally recommended for fitted, pocket and AIO nappies. Check with your manufacturer. You'll also miss out on the amazing, free benefits of sunlight - free stain removal and sanitisation.

That said, all hemp and cotton (flats and prefolds) can go in the dryer. Polar fleece and microfleece dry VERY quickly so they do not need to be in the dryer for very long at all. Fleece covers hung up will probably dry in the same amount of time it takes for your nappies to dry in the dryer. Wool covers will shrink and felt when placed in the dryer. PUL can go through a machine dryer - in fact the occasional run through a dryer can restore a PUL cover that is losing its waterproof qualities.

Snappi™ Fasteners

* Snappis™ look great - which fabrics work, which don't?

They work well on anything which the hooks can grab. Terry towelling and cotton prefolds are the nappies most commonly used with Snappis™. They also work on modern fitted nappies made out of terry (eg TotsBots), fitted/prefold/flat nappies made out of hemp terry or hemp stretch terry. They do not work with flannel(ette).

* How do I prepare a new Snappi™ for use?

With thanks to Caroline

Snappis™ are wonderful but a lot of people find they don't seem to work really well to start with. The key to good Snappi™ use is pre-stretching. There are instructions on the packet but as we all know, not all of us read the packet! When a Snappi™ is stretched properly you WILL feel a big difference when compared to an unstretched new one (like the different between cardboard and paper, or a well-used hair elastic compared to a new one). It's got to be a good 10-15 minutes of stretching and releasing (handy if you are sitting in front of the television). Start with small stretches, around 1-2cm: pull out the arm, hold for half a second then release. If you do this maybe 15-20 times, then make the stretch bigger, say 2-3cm, and keep going. You need to stretch each of the two arms until they can EASILY stretch to twice the unstretched width. Don't forget to stretch the short bottom arm too, though this one is the trickiest. It's easiest to stretch each arm separately, holding the middle of the Snappi™ with one hand and stretching with the other.

Putting on a snappi: If in doubt practice first on a nappy with no baby in it :) Basically you need to hook one of the long arms on to the nappy (for a right-handed person doing the left arm first is easiest), then pull the Snappi™ along and hook the right arm on the nappy. Then pull the little arm down and hook in on to the nappy. When on, the Snappi™ should be around 1.5 times its unstretched length (end to end). If the bottom arm is coming undone all the time, sit down and pre-stretch it again. If it's not pre-stretched properly it will pop off.

But where do all the Snappis™ go? This is a mystery! They like to hide in nappy bags, clothes baskets, toy boxes, etc.... Ask any Snappi™-using household and chances are they don't know where all of their Snappis™ are! :)

Liners and Accessories

* What is the difference between a booster, a doubler, a liner and a soaker?

A booster is an extra absorbent pad laid into a nappy. It can be folding or non-folding, made of cotton, hemp, bamboo or microfibre. Most users prefer not to use microfibre directly against the baby's skin, but put a liner layer of microfleece or cotton in between.

A doubler is another name for a booster.

A liner is a thin layer of material (microfleece, suedecloth, raw silk, or single-use) placed closest to the baby's skin. If the liner is non-absorbent (such as microfleece or suedecloth) it keeps the baby dry, helps the poo come off more easily, and reduces rashes. Raw silk is particularly helpful to heal rashes or irritation.

A soaker can be another name for a booster, but the term is usually used for a knitted wool cover. Wool is quite absorbent and helps soak up and evaporate fluid rather than leaking when a nappy becomes saturated (e.g. overnight). When treated with pure lanolin, wool resists leaks and does not smell.

* What is microfibre (microfiber)? Is it the same as microfleece?

Microfibre is not the same as microfleece! Microfibre is a synthetic fabric often found in cleaning cloths. It is made of a combination of polyester and polyamide, produced in such a way that it absorbs moisture readily. Microfleece is 100% polyester and is very similar to polar fleece, only much thinner. Microfleece is not absorbent - it is used as a nappy liner or the inner of a pocket nappy to produce a stay-dry effect. If doubled or used in combination with another water-resistant layer, it can be used for nappy covers.

Microfibre cleaning cloths can be found in the cleaning or car care areas of shops. You need the shaggy terry-weave cloths - the flat or waffle-weave ones do not work! Brands that members have found useful are ‘Living Essentials’ from Big W, Black and Gold, IGA, the pack at Woolworths with pink/blue/white cloths, or House & Home (found in a 3 pack, one white, one green, one yellow [32 x 32cm]). They typically cost around two dollars per cloth.

Microfibre cloths are used as a booster inside other nappies. Many people choose not to use it directly next to baby's skin - the texture is unpleasant, especially if skin is a little dry. So a liner can be used, or the microfibre cloth tucked inside the nappy. For example, when folding a flat nappy, put the cloth in while folding instead of laying it in at the end.

While absorbent, microfibre can be prone to compression wicking - it soaks up moisture rapidly, but like a sponge, when you squeeze the booster the liquid runs back out. Some people use microfibre as the "core" of a pocket nappy, with hemp or cotton next to the outer water resistant layer to reduce this issue. Some use microfibre as a hidden layer in fitted or all-in-one nappies, or even as a hidden central strip in prefolds.

* Do I need a liner with suedecloth/microfleece inner pocket nappies?

No, the liner is built in as the other side of the pocket.

* Can I just dump single-use liners in the bin?

No. It is unsanitary, and in some areas, illegal (for an example, see the City of Perth Health Act, section 41 (a) (xi), on page 34). If you've decided to use single-use liners, flushable liners are recommended. This keeps the waste where it belongs - in the sewage stream where it will be safely treated.

Training Pants

* What should I use when my child begins toilet learning?

Thanks go to Marnie Holmes for this section of the FAQ.

When your child begins toilet learning, he/she needs something that can be quickly and easily removed or pulled down for pottying. Some people find that regular nappies without a cover are suitable; some people switch straight to cotton undies and bear with any spills; most people find that cloth training pants are more convenient because:

they are easier for the child to pull down and up themselves
they are reusable
they are less bulky than a thicker nappy

* What different styles of training pants are there?

Cloth training pants can be either waterproof or non-waterproof.

Non-waterproof pants are great for knowing straight away if your child has had an accident while still containing moisture or mess. Moisture may wick into clothing if the pants are not changed quickly.
Waterproof training pants keep the surroundings completely protected, though it can be more difficult to know immediately the child has had an accident and therefore provide feedback about it to the child.

Cloth training pants can be snap-sided or with sewn sides.

Sewn sided training pants are generally easier for the child to handle themselves.
Snap-sided training pants can be more difficult to manage for the child, but they have an advantage in that they can open out flat for easier removal in the event of dirty pants.

* Where can I buy cloth training pants?

Supermarkets stock poly/cotton towelling pants which are generally filled with some polyester wadding or thin foam sponge which is not absorbent, so they provide little benefit beyond containing a mess, much like a standard pair of undies.

Some department stores carry training pants. They contain a waterproof layer of PVC with a foam soaker for some absorbency. They reduce leaks but do not completely eliminate them. Not bad for an inexpensive solution.

Some of the well-known brands of nappy makers produce training pants and you can find them at several online stores. There are also local WAHP (work-at-home-parents) makers and importers of training pants.. These tend to be pricier, but of superior quality, with better leakproofing, quality fabrics, and better durability.

* Where can I buy larger sized cloth nappies?

People with more rapidly growing babies or older children sometimes have trouble finding XL and larger nappies. Many WAHPs who do custom nappy sewing will sew a larger size on request.

The Environment

* What are the environmental impacts of reusable and disposable nappies?

* Water use is a big issue in Australia. How do disposable and reusable nappies compare in terms of water consumption?

The Australian life cycle study investigated water resource depletion for reusable and disposable nappies. Each type of nappy uses water in the life cycle – disposables for softwood production, pulp production, nappy production and wastewater treatment; reusables for cotton growing, flushing/soaking and washing.

Disposable nappies used a total of 35-75 cubic metres of water over the life cycle, compared with 48-80 for home-washed nappies using a front-loading washing machine. If a top-loading machine is used, the water use increases to 94-126 cubic metres.

An interesting finding was that water resource depletion associated with the softwood production for disposable nappies was higher than for the cotton growing stage of home-washed nappies. This water use would decrease even more for newer nappy fabrics like organic cotton, hemp or bamboo.

So if you use a front-loading washing machine, water use between disposable and reusable nappies is comparable. You can save water further at home by strategies like using a rainwater tank, a greywater system, and using a water-efficient washing machine/dishwasher/showerheads.

* Aren't disposable nappies 100% biodegradeable these days?

Be very sceptical of biodegradability claims. Many disposable nappies are now claiming to be 70% or even 100% ‘biodegradable’.

Firstly, biodegradation claims are made after testing in ideal composting conditions with access to air, conditions which do not occur in our landfills. A typical household compost heap cannot cope with the output of even one baby, and soiled nappies should not go into household compost at all.

Secondly, biodegradability claims can be spurious. For one example, in December 2008 the Federal Court of Australia declared that SeNevens International Ltd was guilty of making “false and misleading” claims about the biodegradability of their Safeties Nature Nappies. SeNevens (now known as Eco Quest Limited) claimed that their nappies were 100% biodegradable. The Australian Competition and Consumer Commission took them to court for false, misleading and deceptive conduct in their marketing of these nappies, in breach of the Trade Practices Act. The charge was upheld as the court found the product contained plastic components that are not capable of being broken down by the biological activity of living organisms.

Link: "Nappy biodegradability claims declared false and misleading”

Lastly, landfill is not the most important environmental impact that disposable nappies have. You need to look at the entire life cycle, the carbon costs, the packaging, the transportation costs, the energy consumed in manufacture, the pollution, and the raw materials used including non-renewable resources. Focusing on biodegradability is very convenient for nappy manufacturers who would like to greenwash their products, but it is not the whole story.

Advocacy

* Where can I download a brochure to distribute?

If you would like to distribute an introduction to cloth nappies to your local mother's group, playground, maternity hospital, or child health centre, the Australian Nappy Network has an MCN brochure available in PDF form for download, printing, and distribution (in unchanged format). Please note that while you can provide your personal telephone number in the rear box for information on non-business nappy gatherings, no business details or advertising of any kind may be added to this brochure under any circumstances. The ANN also has a range of posters and fact sheets available on the same page.

* I'd like to get more involved in cloth nappy advocacy. Where do I start?

There are two main groups involved in cloth nappy advocacy work Down Under. Have a look at The Australian Nappy Network which runs many events in Australia, and the New Zealand Nappy Network.

Oz Cloth Nappies FAQ copyright Di Kidman, Lara Hopkins, Natasha Leslie, Jennifer Gan 2005-2011.
You are more than welcome to link to this page from your website. Please ask permission before reproducing and/or disseminating in any form, in part or in full, for any reason.

Recent Blog Posts

OCN - Nappy FAQ

Welcome to this FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) providing information on cloth nappies, from modern cloth nappies to traditional flats.

This information has been distilled from decades of experience by parents like you, and is constantly being revised and updated. We hope it answers all of your questions about reusable nappies - if not, drop us a line!

Modern Cloth Nappies

Flats and Prefolds

Setting Up

Buying Nappies

Polar Fleece and Microfleece

Wool

Laundry

Drying Nappies

Snappi™ fasteners

More Switcher Questions

Liners and Accessories

Training Pants

The Environment

Advocacy

Modern Cloth Nappies

* What are the different types of modern nappies?

Flats and Prefolds

* What are the different types of flat nappies?

* What are the standard dimensions of prefolds and flats, and what ages/weights do they accommodate?

* How do I fold a flat or prefold nappy?

Setting Up

* How many nappies should I get for each age?

* How much is my starter stash going to cost me?

* What about wipes?

* I'm ordering nappies - how do I measure my baby to check the size? (a.k.a. "What's a rise?")

Buying Nappies

*Where do I buy reusable nappies in Australia?

* But I'd really like to see them before I buy. Can't I find modern cloth nappies in regular stores?

* Ebay doesn't allow second-hand nappy sales any more. Where can I sell my baby’s outgrown nappies?

Polar Fleece and Microfleece

* Why can polar fleece be used for both covers and liners?

* What are the different kinds of Malden Mills fleeces?

* How do I strip microfleece?

* I hear a lot of people swear by wool covers, especially for night-time. But how do they work?

* How do I handle, wash and lanolise wool covers?

* Where do I get lanolin from?

* Honey, I've shrunk the soaker! My wool cover went into the washing machine. Help?

Laundry

* How do I wash cloth nappies?

* What is drypailing?

* Suddenly today's nappies have grey/black/purplish stains! Could it be teething, or Panadol?

* My hemp nappies are retaining smells a little. What can I try?

* What is a Little Squirt and how do I use it?

* Someone told me that washing cloth nappies costs just as much as buying single-use nappies. Surely that can't be right!?

* My flannelette nappies are pilling. How can I fix them?

Drying Nappies

* Is the general consensus that pocket nappies dry quickly – i.e. faster than say terry or flannelette fitteds or all-in-ones (AIOs)?

* Is there anything besides the clothes dryer or shade drying to stop nappies going stiff and 'crunchy' in the sun?

* What about using a dryer all the time?

Snappi™ Fasteners

* Snappis™ look great - which fabrics work, which don't?

* How do I prepare a new Snappi™ for use?

More Switcher Questions

* Nappy forum users are befuddling me with abbreviations! What do they all mean?

* Do childcare centres do cloth nappies?

* Can I use nappy rash cream with cloth nappies?

* My baby has eczema. Do you have any nappy tips?

* Is it too late to start (with older children)?

* Cloth nappies out and about, is it possible? What about more than just for the day?

* Someone told me that babies in rear-facing car seats shouldn't be in thick cloth nappies - what's up with that?

* I've found my baby is an extremely heavy wetter. Do you have some tips for night nappies?

* What is wing droop?

Liners and Accessories

* What is the difference between a booster, a doubler, a liner and a soaker?

* What is microfibre (microfiber)? Is it the same as microfleece?

* Do I need a liner with suedecloth/microfleece inner pocket nappies?

* Can I just dump single-use liners in the bin?

Training Pants

* What should I use when my child begins toilet learning?

* What different styles of training pants are there?

* Where can I buy cloth training pants?

* Where can I buy larger sized cloth nappies?

The Environment

* What are the environmental impacts of reusable and disposable nappies?

* Water use is a big issue in Australia. How do disposable and reusable nappies compare in terms of water consumption?

* Aren't disposable nappies 100% biodegradeable these days?